#50: How London's Hospitality Sector Adapted to Crisis – A Conversation with David Moore

The hospitality industry is no stranger to challenges, but few moments have tested businesses as profoundly as in recent years. In Episode 50 of The Ceres Podcast, host Stelios Theocharous sits down with David Moore from Pied a Terre, one of London's most respected fine dining establishments, to discuss how the restaurant navigated a turbulent period.

Whether you're running a fish and chip shop or a high-end restaurant, the lessons from this conversation are invaluable. Moore's insights into menu adaptations, supplier relationships, and government support offer a candid look at how businesses can survive – and even thrive – in uncertain times.

From the outset, Moore paints a stark picture of London's restaurant trade as the pandemic took hold. What started as a promising year with strong sales in January and a booming Valentine's period quickly spiralled into uncertainty. By the beginning of March, weekday bookings had dwindled to just a handful of customers, leaving restaurants scrambling to adjust.

With dwindling footfall, Pied a Terre had to pivot fast, rewriting menus, cutting down on staff, and re-evaluating supplier relationships. One particularly striking moment in the discussion comes when Moore shares how their fish supplier, Flying Fish, temporarily shut its doors because demand had plummeted. "He's down to 10 boxes a night instead of 150," Moore explains, underscoring the knock-on effects across the supply chain.

One of the most practical takeaways from this episode is how Moore's team streamlined operations. Gone were expansive menus filled with multiple choices, replaced by carefully curated set menus. This shift wasn't just about reducing costs—it helped control waste, improve efficiency, and ensure that what was being served was still of the highest standard.

There's a lesson for fish and chip shop owners: simplifying the menu can improve margins without compromising quality. With inflation and supply chain disruptions continuing to impact costs, focusing on best-selling items and eliminating slow-moving products might be a smart strategy.

Interestingly, despite financial pressures, customers who did come through the doors were still willing to spend—but in different ways. Moore notes that while overall spending per head decreased, many guests were "having a very good drink" to compensate.

This raises an essential question for fish and chip shops: How are customer habits shifting? Are they ordering fewer add-ons, or are they seeking value-driven promotions? Moore's experiment with offering a 50% discount on their tasting menu successfully boosted short-term bookings, but he acknowledges that it was only a temporary solution.

The conversation also highlights the industry's dependence on government support. Moore discusses the six key demands from hospitality leaders, including:

• A one-year business rate holiday

• Flexible payment terms for National Insurance and PAYE

• Protection from landlords enforcing evictions

• A financial rescue plan for employees who lost jobs

• VAT deferments to help with cash flow

Many fish & chip shop owners will relate to the frustration around VAT payments. As Moore points out, delaying VAT was one of the most significant tasks from hospitality operators, but even if businesses withheld payments, enforcement seemed unlikely. His candid remark, "If the industry comes together and everyone just does it, it'd be very interesting to see how they enforce it", captures the collective uncertainty at the time.

Despite the difficulties, Moore's approach is refreshingly pragmatic. He describes the atmosphere in London as akin to being on a 'war footing', urging fellow business owners to keep their heads up. "We've got to put a brave face on," he says, emphasizing the importance of staff morale and customer experience, even in the most challenging times.

His closing remark about his plan – to redecorate his house during the closure – injects a moment of humour into an otherwise heavy conversation. It's a reminder that even in crisis, finding small ways to stay productive can help maintain a sense of control.

This episode is packed with practical insights for fish & chip shop owners, from adjusting menus to handling supplier challenges and managing cash flow. If you've ever wondered how high-end restaurants face the same fundamental challenges as traditional takeaways, this is a must-listen.