#65 - The Rise & Fall of a Cult Burger Brand – Yanni Papoutsis on The Ceres Podcast

When it comes to shaking up the UK’s food scene, few have made as much impact as Yianni Papoutsis, the founder of Meat Liquor. In Episode 65 of The Ceres Podcast, hosted by Stelios Theocharous, Yianni takes us on an unfiltered journey through his rise from a scrappy burger van to a multi-million-pound restaurant empire. This conversation is a must-listen for food industry professionals, aspiring entrepreneurs, and anyone fascinated by the mechanics of success, failure, and reinvention.

Yianni describes himself as an “accidental restaurateur,” a title he proudly embraces. His story begins in the world of theatre and opera production, a career that exposed him to the fragility of the arts sector, particularly during economic downturns. Sensing the need for an additional income stream, he bought a rundown burger van with just a couple of thousand pounds from an ISA account. A rapid transformation followed: from serving backstage crews at festivals to hosting wildly popular street food parties across London.

But it wasn’t all smooth sailing. A turning point came when Yianni’s food truck was stolen, leading him to pivot into a pop-up restaurant. This would become The Meat Easy, a short-lived but wildly successful experiment in serving high-quality burgers with a side of mayhem. The overwhelming demand paved the way for Meat Liquor, which started in a brutalist car park behind Oxford Street and quickly became a cult phenomenon.

Long before social media dictated the food scene, Meat Liquor was a sensation on Twitter. Yianni recalls how the stolen van incident went viral, drumming up even more interest in his brand. The episode delves into how social media was crucial in catapulting Meat Liquor from an underground food truck to a national chain.

Yianni and Stelios discuss the UK’s changing perception of street food, which was once seen as an afterthought but has since gained mainstream legitimacy. Unlike in the US, where street food thrives in cities with ample space, the UK’s logistical challenges forced the movement to adapt. The solution? Repurposed buildings and pop-up venues, something Yianni helped pioneer.

One of the most eye-opening moments in the podcast is when Yianni candidly admits that Meat Liquor’s meteoric rise—from zero to £12 million in sales within five years—wasn’t sustainable. The pressure of rapid expansion, constant innovation, and maintaining quality took its toll.

At its peak, Meat Liquor had over a dozen locations, including an outpost in Singapore. But for Yianni, the business had become more about operations than his true passion: cooking. He made the difficult decision to step away from the business, proving that knowing when to stop is just as important as knowing how to grow.

Yianni and Stelios don’t shy away from tackling the significant issues facing hospitality today. From the impact of COVID-19 to the precarious financial model of many restaurants, they explore what it takes to survive in an industry with razor-thin margins. Yianni shares insights on how businesses must streamline their menus, rethink locations, and adapt to shifting consumer habits.

He also weighs in on VAT in the UK, comparing it to other European countries where lower taxes have helped sustain the restaurant industry. With rising costs, uncertain footfall, and changing dining habits, Yianni believes the government needs to rethink its approach to supporting hospitality businesses.

This episode of The Ceres Podcast is packed with invaluable lessons for anyone in the food business. It’s a raw, honest, and often humorous look at what it takes to build and sustain a restaurant brand. Yianni’s journey is a testament to resilience, adaptability, and the sheer power of passion in facing challenges.