Episode 221 – Fish, Chips & Change: A Belfast Restaurateur’s Journey Through Recession and Reinvention
Posted by Emily on 11th Jul 2025 Reading Time:
In the latest episode of The Ceres Podcast, host Stelios Theocharous sits down with John Lavery, co-owner of Fish City in Belfast, for a powerful, reflective conversation about resilience, entrepreneurship, and redefining fish and chips for a modern audience. This isn’t just a story about food — it’s a story about surviving economic upheaval, choosing integrity over shortcuts, and building something meaningful out of necessity.
Whether you’re a fish and chip shop owner, a hospitality professional, or just someone who appreciates grit and good business sense, this episode has plenty to offer.
The Business Journey: From Meat Markets to Fish Markets
John Lavery’s path into hospitality wasn’t straightforward. He began in the meat business, moved into wholesale, and then into property development — just in time for the 2007–2008 crash to hit. That crash left a deep mark, personally and professionally. As he tells it, “it took 10 years to unravel myself out of that position,” but those hard lessons gave him a durable, entrepreneurial mindset.
This raw honesty sets the tone for the episode. Lavery doesn’t shy away from the toll these experiences took — and Stelios meets him with empathy and understanding. It’s not your average industry chat. It’s about weathering storms and rebuilding with purpose.
Fish City: Building a Brand With Depth
Fish City wasn’t born out of a lifelong dream; it was a strategic move. Lavery and his wife saw an opportunity in fish and chips: cash over the counter, recession resistance, and brand potential. They started in a rural petrol forecourt and moved to Belfast city centre — a risky pivot that ultimately paid off.
What makes Fish City stand out is its commitment to being more than a chippy. Lavery describes their approach as seafood-first, resisting the temptation to overload the menu with popular meat or pizza options just to chase volume. Their Belfast location is thriving, but it’s not without challenge — especially when public perception still pegs them as a “chippy” despite offering a full seafood experience.
“We would be probably the most genuine seafood, fish and chip restaurant in Northern Ireland,” Lavery asserts.
The Bigger Picture: Sustainability, Strategy & Changing Tides
One of the most striking parts of the episode is the nuanced discussion about sustainability. Lavery doesn’t just wear his MSC accreditation as a badge — he sees environmental stewardship as a foundational pillar. But he’s also pragmatic.
He and Stelios dig into the hard truth: customers may say they care about sustainability, but the data shows most don’t engage with it. Still, Lavery believes the key is subtle trust-building — making diners feel good about choosing a restaurant that “does things right,” even if they can’t explain why.
They also touch on shifting consumer behaviour, market repositioning, and the challenges of pricing in a high-inflation world. Lavery is candid about the difficulty of changing portion sizes, raising prices, and balancing margins while stayingrelevant and accessible.
A Candid Take on the Fish & Chip Industry
The episode also explores broader industry challenges:
- Why Northern Irish shops offer broader menus than mainland UK
- The public’s confused expectations on portion sizes
- The dangers of outdated messaging around value and price
- Why younger generations aren’t rejecting fish and chips — they’re just not being engaged in the right way
Lavery’s involvement with the NFFF (National Federation of Fish Friers) shines here too. He explains the rationale behind the industry-standard portion poster — a misunderstood but well-intentioned campaign aimed at resetting public expectations and helping operators protect margins.
“It’s a public education poster, not a point-of-sale poster,” Lavery clarifies.
Final Reflections: VAT, Value & Vision
In the closing moments, the conversation turns toward government policy, VAT, and the crushing weight of regulation on small operators. Lavery is measured but firm in his stance: reform is needed, and so is unity.
“The current crisis is also an opportunity,” he says. “We need to rethink, reset, and speak with one voice — suppliers, operators, everyone.”
Why You Should Listen
Episode 221 of The Ceres Podcast is rich in honesty, depth, and practical insight. It’s not just for fish and chip shop owners — it’s for anyone running a business under pressure and trying to make smart, sustainable decisions for the future.
If you want to hear from someone who’s walked through fire and come out stronger, this conversation is well worth your time.
Listen Now
And if you haven’t already, subscribe to The Ceres Podcast for more no-nonsense conversations with leaders and thinkers across the hospitality and food industries.