Episode 60: Andy Hayler on the Future of Restaurants & Michelin-Starred Dining
Posted by Emma on 5th Jun 2020 Reading Time:
The hospitality industry is no stranger to challenges, but few have tested its resilience, like the COVID-19 pandemic. In Episode 60 of The Ceres Podcast, host Stelios Theocharous sits down with renowned food critic Andy Hayler to discuss how restaurants, particularly high-end establishments, have navigated the crisis and what the future holds for fine dining. If you own a fish and chip shop, restaurant, or hospitality business, this episode is packed with insights you won't miss.
As the pandemic unfolded, government restrictions forced restaurants to close their doors or pivot rapidly to survive. Hayler, who has reviewed over 1,800 restaurants worldwide, shares his observations on how businesses handled the crisis. Some adapted quickly, switching to takeaway or delivery models, while others—especially Michelin-starred establishments—struggled to justify their traditional dining experiences in an era of social distancing.
Hayler recalls how fine dining institutions like Noma in Copenhagen temporarily reinvented themselves by serving more accessible food. This shift raises the question of whether restaurants will revert to their old ways or whether COVID-19 has permanently altered the landscape.
One of the most striking points in the conversation is the industry's economic challenge. Restaurants typically operate on razor-thin margins, with profits often between 5% and 10%. Many establishments are at a crossroads with social distancing rules slashing capacity and reducing footfall. "The idea of running a restaurant at 50% capacity just isn't viable," Hayler states, highlighting that the numbers don't add up for many businesses.
Central London eateries, heavily reliant on international tourists and business diners, have been particularly hard hit. With travel restrictions still affecting global movement, some of the UK's most prestigious dining spots find it challenging to attract enough high-spending customers to sustain operations.
While some diners have rushed back to their favourite spots, others have grown accustomed to home-cooked meals and takeaways. Hayler and Theocharous discuss whether consumer behaviour has permanently shifted.
One of the more surprising takeaways from the episode is how some small businesses have flourished in this environment. Hayler references a London café that saw an increase in revenue during lockdown because takeaway-only service resulted in a faster customer turnover. Similarly, high-end sushi restaurant Endo at the Rotunda successfully transitioned to offering premium takeaway bento boxes, which sold out within a day of being launched.
For fish and chip shop owners, independent restaurants, and hospitality professionals, this episode offers crucial takeaways:
- Flexibility is key. Adapting menus, service styles, and business models can differentiate survival and closure.
- Understanding customer psychology matters. Not everyone is ready to dine out like they did before—restaurants need to find ways to rebuild confidence.
- The delivery model isn't for everyone. While some cuisines translate well to takeaway, others face more significant challenges in maintaining quality and margins.
Despite the bleak outlook for many restaurants, Hayler remains optimistic about the industry's resilience. He acknowledges that while some establishments won't make it, new opportunities will emerge for businesses willing to innovate and respond to evolving consumer demands.
As the conversation draws to a close, he leaves listeners with a message of support: "I'd just like to wish everyone in the hospitality industry well. These are incredibly tough times, but this sector is full of passionate, adaptable people. Some will struggle, some will thrive, but the industry will survive."
Whether you run a fish and chip shop, a pub, or a fine dining establishment, this episode is a must-listen. Gain valuable insights from Andy Hayler and learn how to position your business for success in a rapidly changing world.
? Listen to Episode 60 now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or your preferred platform.